House of Matriarch- Nouveaunille
Notes: Hawaiian Vanilla, Madagascan Vanilla, Tahitian Vanilla, Oud, Sandalwood, Guiac Wood, Caramel, Cruelty Free Musks, Myrrh, Fenugreek, Buttery Rhizomes, Cacao
When I found out that Joseph Sagona was part of another HOM fragrance, I can’t lie… I got a little excited. As a fan of the Longing, I had an immediate interest. I checked out the notes and remember thinking “this sounds delicious and interesting” then placed my order. Some time passed between placing the order and receiving… a holiday passed…and much travel. I returned to FL and found the black mailer in my PO Box. I finally got a chance to try it on and this is what happened…
Initial Impressions: I sprayed two spritzes- one on my chest and another on my wrist/pulse point (I know weak for a confessed over sprayer). Because there was so much time between purchase and try on time… I forgot what the notes were. I didn’t check the notes prior to spraying. My first thoughts were: “Is this caramel… buttery toffee… vanilla coffee?!?!…” There is no essence of coffee in this but I got the image of a beautiful sweet, creamy cup of coffee with vanilla/caramel/something rich and buttery/sweet like toffee… I believe the coffee imagery came to mind because of the richness/smoothness/darkness of this fragrance.
I am not a HOM expert, in fact I am very much a novice to this house. I was excited to see how gourmand this came out at first spray. If you have been following me for a while then you know I am more of a Montale/Mancera/Profumum Roma head… this is not a cloying/sickeningly sweet fragrance like what can be found with some of my favorite houses. This definitely can hold its own in gourmand land though! I really enjoyed the caramel in the opening and dry down, it is without doubt the most dominant note on my skin. I was wowed by the sweetness in the opening. Again, nothing over the top… but def different from the other offerings I have smelled from HOM. I am a fan of Fenugreek as it reminds me of Sunday Morning breakfasts with a thick coat of Maple Syrup on pancakes. This fragrance had my mouth watering with the image of Sunday breakfast on the table- creamy sweet flavored coffee and buttery pancakes with tons of maple syrup!
Dry Down: I could smell the woods in the opening but to be honest, I was so infatuated with the caramel that they totally took a back seat in my mind. After approx. 40 minutes the caramel started to settle down and I then paid more attention to the woods. I also got a chance to appreciate the syrupy Fenugreek and slight licorice vibe that played with the woods (totally keeping with the dark gourmand vibe). I don’t get musk out of this on my skin. A side note- I am a fan of the woods Christi puts in her fragrances. The ouds are very wearable for the masses. Her sandalwood is creamy. Guiac wood has a lot of sweet qualities to it so in this fragrance it pays very well with her fenugreek and vanillas.
Projection: The first hour of wear for me had a lot of projection. I have a feeling my experience may be a little different as I live in Florida and the heat does that. I got many whiffs of this off of my chest throughout the day. After the first hour things settled considerably, I blame this on anosmia because just when I thought this was gone it would re-appear and I would get a rich sweet whiff. I had to ask people repeatedly throughout the day if they could smell my fragrance, and they said yes within 6 inches (ca. 15 cm) of my skin.
Longevity: I have notoriously bad skin and this held on through the day! I sprayed a little on at 8 AM without a base and it noticeably held all the way through to 3 pm! I am impressed for a natural perfume to perform this way. Also, I went to the gym after work and I got a final whiff once my temperature rose at 5PM, so this one is totally a keeper!
Overall: I am very pleased and impressed with this offering. It wears longevity and performance wise much like one of my other favorites- The Longing. I enjoyed my experience with this fragrance from beginning to end. The opening is incredible and the dry-down provides a totally different experience. This one is on my buy list for sure.
Nouveaunille
Pros
- Very unique take on a caramel gourmand fragrance. Actually... a very unique gourmand overall!
- Longevity was excellent for a natural perfume.
- You can wear this on many occasions and in different settings.
- Very unisex scent.
- Best/most natural vanilla fragrance ... dare I say... of 2018?
Cons
- Wish the 2ml atomizer came in glass and not plastic.